By Fergal Gleeson
The Goon Tycoons are a small batch side project from the highly awarded Julian Langworthy, Winemaker and John Fogarty, Viticulturist of Deep Woods fame. It’s an intriguing range of unusual varieties, single vineyard wines and experimental winemaking techniques sourced from Great Southern and Margaret River.
I recently tasted some new releases from the Goon Tycoons. As a general comment there is great attention to detail across the wines which are well priced for the quality. Available online and from the cellar door in Margaret River.
The ‘Supermodel’ Riesling 2018
What a thrill! The ‘Supermodel’ is all steel, slate and scintillating acid. Riesling can be shy and reticent. Not so with the ‘Supermodel’ – this wine has incredible power and focus. A light touch in the winery with cold fermented free run juice gets a great result. You could cellar this but it’s so good now I would drink this fresh and young. Wine is made to share though I must admit I hogged this one.
RRP $25 4.5 stars
The ‘Red Headed Stepchild’ Riesling
The Goons make two variations on the Riesling theme. The same free run Frankland River juice is given different treatments. The ‘Red Headed Stepchild’ is oak fermented making it softer, more floral and marginally sweeter. Giving Riesling oak exposure is unorthodox but not unheard of. They do it in Pfalz in Germany. It provides some extra texture and makes for a more rounded wine.
RRP $25 4 stars
Smoking Gun Chenin 2018
Chenin Blanc has been rediscovered by some of Margaret River’s smart young winemakers such as LAS Vino, Ipso Facto and the Goons. It has ‘nobility’ and a hefty price tag in Vouvray in France. The ‘Smoking Gun’ Chenin has an electrifying acid and a dryness that makes you salivate. It finishes long. The barrel fermentation echoes modern cool climate Chardonnay in flavour. Like the Riesling it will age well but hard to walk past the enjoyment of drinking it fresh.
RRP $25 4 stars
Rapunzel Field Blend Rosé 2018
The Rapunzel Rose is a field blend of Nebbiolo, Merlot, Chardonnay and Arneis. Julian Langworthy has won many awards for his Deep Woods Rosés and his ability with the style is apparent. The ‘Rapunzel’ is a copper coloured Rosé where neither the red or white fruits dominate. Finishes long with a nice crunch. Easy to enjoy.
RRP $25 3.5 stars
Prohibition Red Shiraz Tempranillo Grenache 2017
The Tempranillo is the key to this blend. It provides the savoury core and leathery tannins that define it. Shiraz provides the plum fruit, Grenache some juiciness. It’s medium to full bodied. Though it doesn’t follow the GSM recipe there’s lots of pepper and spice to make a Rhone lover happy. It’s interesting. It works!
RRP $28 4 stars
Frankland River ‘Bunch Boy’ Shiraz 2016
‘Le grand fromage’ and the ‘big kahuna’ of The Goon Tycoons range is ‘Bunch Boy’. This is single vineyard Frankland River Shiraz whole bunch pressed Burgundy style. The inclusion of stems and all infuses the dense Shiraz fruit with a cedary complexity. More Hermitage like than about any Aussie Shiraz that I can recall. Tis intriguing, challenging and delicious. You might want to hug it.
RRP $50 4.5 stars
More at www.goontycoons.com.au
Photos courtesy of: Freedom Garvey, Photographer