By Fergal Gleeson
South African born winemaker Remi Guise describes his wines as “extreme, atypical, love/hate!” He was bored with a lot of the Aussie wine he was drinking back in 2007 so when he started tripe.iscariot back in 2013 he decided to make wine that he would like to drink. “There’s certainly much more diversity in Australian wine today,” he says.
The inspired name comes from his attempt to capture his winemaking approach. “Tripe” comes from the “nose to tail” food philosophy which Remi deploys in the grape solids that he uses to make his wines. “Iscariot” is from the apostle who was a “black sheep” which Remi identifies with.
“I like texture in wine and could see there was lots of flavour being discarded. Stalks and leaves could be used in different parts of the process. The aim is not to make weird wine. The aim is to make it weird good!”
“Like any decent winemaker I’m a minimalist but I will add things if I have to best express terroir. People like wine with a real story behind it that they can connect with. Wine sellers want to tell their customers about the people and the land. That’s easier now. This style of wine is at the beginning of a curve.”
Are you customers different to those that drink the classics? “I think they are but I wish they weren’t. They are not necessarily interested in the classics. That is a point of difference but I hope that if I am still making similar wines in 10 years’ time that they will have become part of the tapestry of Margaret River. Margaret River is still only 50 years old. You could say that only Cabernet and Chardonnay are established as world class. There’s a lot more to be said for Grenache and Chenin Blanc in this region.”
Special wines to watch out for in the tripe.iscariot range include Aspic “a Grenache based Rosé made from Karridale fruit. It’s bone dry, made with some stalk, battonage and will age well. Premium grapes making premium Rosé as it should be” and Marrow a Syrah and Malbec blend.
“The two Chenin Blancs I make in the Absolution Series are also very personal to me. Chenin Blanc is an obsession as a South African so I always wanted to make it. But a premium version to counter the old sweet Chenin Blancs. Margaret River is just 40 minutes north to south if you speed but these Chenins are very different in style.”
Remi plans to expand volumes to keep up with supply and have his wines available in more parts of Australia, the UK and Japan, “where they like textural wines. And also because I want to go to Tokyo!”
tripe.Iscariot Aspic Grenache Rosé 2015
Not your conventional Rosé but then South African born winemaker Remi Guise would hate to be called conventional. He uses a ‘berry to stalk’ philosophy to make wines with flavour. Aspic is a pale orange colour and is more in the white than red wine spectrum on the nose and to taste. Then it surprises by finishing with subtle strawberries and red fruit. This 100% Grenache has texture and minerality. Remi was recently nominated as a Young Gun of Wine. Aspic Rosé which is produced in tiny quantities shows why. The best Rosé I’ve tasted this year.
RRP $32 Rating: 4 stars
tripe.Iscariot Absolution danse macabre 2017
Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay, Muscat D’Alexandrie
Interesting blend that makes for a complex wine. Textural and mouthfilling Semillon, hints of fruit sweetness and acid freshness from the other components. Brought to mind German Riesling in the play of sweet and citrus flavours but in a more robust style. The 12.8% alcohol level is much lower than the power of the wine suggested. Premium quality white and intriguing. Wine adventurers will love it.
RRP $26 Rating: 3.5 stars
More at http://www.tripeiscariot.com
This is a modified excerpt from an article, which appeared in the spring edition of Your Margaret River Region Magazine. For more Wine Reviews read and follow www.greatwineblog.com Drink and be merry!