By Fergal Gleeson

Gippsland is home to wine luminaries like Bass Phillip and William Downie — and while it might not be as widely known as neighbouring regions like the Yarra Valley or Mornington Peninsula, its potential is enormous.

Xavier Goodridge is another who is building Gippland’s reputation. Based in Maffra, he organically farms a small vineyard planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. With a background in low-intervention winemaking, Xavier’s style leans into purity, freshness and finesse — wines that are expressive, vibrant and a little bit wild in the best way.

His latest releases under Xavier Wine span estate-grown single vineyard bottlings as well as his approachable PA PA range sourced from trusted growers. They all show a clear point of view.

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Estate Releases

2024 Avon Pinot Noir (RRP $72)
A delicate and precise Pinot with red cherry, raspberry, and silky tannins. Light on its feet yet flavour-packed — it shows the finesse Xavier brings to Pinot. Bright lifted flavours and acid showcase beautiful fruit picked at optimum ripeness.

2024 Gippsland Pinot Noir (RRP $45)
Another pure and pristine expression of Pinot Noir. At just 12% alcohol, it’s light to medium bodied. The fruit was destemmed and matured in old, large-format oak, so it’s all about the expression of site. Xavier describes it as his “Village” wine — think Volnay. Dry, savoury, balanced and seriously moreish. Excellent value.

2024 Upper Yarra Pinot Noir (RRP $72)
Sourced from the renowned Lusatia Park Vineyard in the Yarra Valley, this has more intensity than the Gippsland Pinots— red earth and clay complexity wrapped around ripe strawberry fruit. But Xavier’s signature restraint and energy shine through: lifted and long. This is my pick of the Pinots.

2024 Avon Chardonnay (RRP $72)
Funky, complex, and artisanal in feel — this isn’t your typical Aussie Chardy. It leans into soft florals and layered texture rather than sharp acidity. Long lees contact and phenolic grip give it a “natural wine” vibe without losing precision. A cool, alternative expression of Chardonnay.

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PA PA Range

The PA PA label features fruit sourced from cool-climate Mount Gambier — made with minimal intervention, but aimed squarely at drinkability. Xavier says, these wines are “made to make people happy.” Mission accomplished.

2024 PA PA Pinot Gris (RRP $28)
Textural, savoury, and more serious than most Pinot Grigio. Think stewed pear, apricot and a hint of grip. Less Marvel movie, more arthouse film.

2024 PA PA Pinot Noir (RRP $24)
The original crowd-pleaser in the range — vibrant red & black cherry, spice, leafy savoury notes and crisp acidity. It’s juicy, fresh, and smashable.

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